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Gaeng Liang is a traditional Thai peppery vegetable soup with a clear, light broth that has been part of Thai cuisine for over 1000 years, predating the introduction of chili peppers. This healthy, medicinal soup features a unique herbal paste made with white peppercorns, grachai (fingerroot), shrimp paste, and an abundance of fresh vegetables including gourds and kabocha squash. Unlike heavier Thai curries, it offers robust flavors in a lighter form and is traditionally consumed for its health benefits, particularly believed to help boost breast milk supply in nursing mothers. The essential ingredient is lemon basil (bai mangluck), which gives the soup its distinctive aromatic character.
Using a stone mortar and pestle, crush the white peppercorns until they become a fine powder. Chop all herbs into small pieces. Add ingredients in this order, pounding to a fine paste between each addition: grachai (fingerroot), garlic, shallots, then Thai chilies. Add the finely diced mushrooms and pound thoroughly. Finally, incorporate the salted bean paste and shrimp paste, mixing well. Set aside.
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Peel and cube the kabocha pumpkin into bite-sized pieces. Trim and peel the snake gourd, halve lengthwise, scoop out seeds, and cut into pieces. Halve the ivy gourd lengthwise and cut into bite-sized pieces. Peel the luffa and cut into chunks. Strip the lemon basil leaves from their stems.
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Bring 4 cups of water to a boil in a pot. Add the prepared curry paste to the boiling water, stirring until completely dissolved. Season with salt - the broth should taste notably salty with pronounced white pepper and grachai flavors. Let it come back to a boil.
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Add the kabocha pumpkin first as it requires the longest cooking time. Let it cook for about 5 minutes until it begins to soften. Next, add the gourds (ivy gourd, luffa, and bottle gourd). Cook for 2-3 minutes until they begin to soften. Finally, add the remaining mushrooms and cook for another 1-2 minutes.
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Taste and adjust seasoning with additional salt if needed. Add white soy sauce and palm sugar if using. Just before serving, stir in the lemon basil leaves and remove from heat. The residual heat will wilt the basil perfectly. Ladle into serving bowls and garnish with additional lemon basil leaves.
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Per serving
Gaeng Liang is considered one of the oldest Thai soups, likely dating back over 1000 years - long before the Portuguese introduced chili peppers to Thailand in the 16th century. This places it among the most ancient and unchanged dishes in Thai cuisine. The soup originates from central and northern Thailand, where it was developed in rural communities as a way to utilize abundant seasonal vegetables and herbs from backyard gardens. Historically, it was everyday modest food cooked at home, embodying the Thai philosophy of 'food as medicine.' The medicinal properties of Gaeng Liang have been recognized for centuries, with traditional Thai medicine practitioners adapting the vegetable ingredients based on specific health conditions. It is particularly famous for being served to nursing mothers, as it is believed to help boost breast milk supply and provide essential nutrients during postpartum recovery. The soup represents the harmonious balance of flavors and health benefits that is central to Thai culinary philosophy.
What makes Gaeng Liang authentic is the use of white peppercorns as the primary heat source rather than chilies, marking it as pre-Columbian Thai cuisine. The essential ingredients that cannot be omitted are: lemon basil (bai mangluck) which gives the soup its signature aroma; grachai (fingerroot) for its unique flavor profile; and a variety of gourd vegetables which are traditional to the recipe. The curry paste must be made with a mortar and pestle in the traditional order of ingredients for proper flavor development. Unlike other Thai soups that may have thicker, coconut-based broths, authentic Gaeng Liang has a clear, light broth that allows the flavors of the vegetables and herbs to shine through. The soup should taste notably peppery with a pronounced grachai flavor, balanced by the aromatic lemon basil. Traditional preparation involves cooking vegetables in stages based on their required cooking times, and the lemon basil should only be wilted at the very end to preserve its aromatic oils. Authentic versions may include shrimp or dried shrimp for additional umami, though the dish is easily adapted for vegetarian diets while maintaining its essential character.
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