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ปาท่องโก๋
Thai-style Chinese fried dough sticks, known as Pa Tong Ko or Patongo, are golden, crispy on the outside and airy on the inside. These beloved breakfast treats are traditionally enjoyed with sweetened condensed milk, pandan custard (sangkhaya), or alongside Thai rice congee (jok). First introduced by Chinese immigrants in the 1920s, these crullers have become an iconic part of Thai street food culture.
In a large mixing bowl, combine flour, instant yeast, baking ammonia, alum powder, sugar, and salt. Stir the dry ingredients together thoroughly before adding any liquid.
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Add the lukewarm water to the dry ingredients. Mix well with your hands or a wooden spoon until a sticky, wet dough forms. The dough should be quite wet and sticky - do not add more flour even if tempted. Knead for about 8 minutes until the dough becomes smooth and elastic.
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Coat the dough lightly with 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil. Place in a greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap or a damp cloth, and let rise in a warm place for 2 hours or until doubled in size.
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After the first rise, sprinkle baking powder over the dough and gently fold it in without deflating the air bubbles. Let the dough rest for another 15 minutes.
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Generously dust your work surface with flour. Turn the risen dough onto the floured surface, being careful not to deflate the air bubbles. Cut the dough in half and shape each half into a long rectangular log. Cut each log into strips about 2cm (¾ inch) wide and 10-12cm (4-5 inches) long. You should have an even number of pieces to pair them up.
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Take two dough strips and stack them on top of each other. Using a wooden skewer or chopstick dipped in water, press firmly down the center lengthwise to bind the two pieces together. The pressed line should be deep enough to hold them together but not cut through.
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In a wok or deep pot, heat 1.5 liters of oil to 175-180°C (350°F). Test the temperature by dropping a small piece of dough into the oil - it should sizzle immediately and float to the surface.
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Gently stretch each paired dough stick to about 20-25cm (8-10 inches) long. Carefully lower into the hot oil. Immediately and continuously turn the crullers with chopsticks or tongs for the first 30 seconds to ensure even puffing and expansion. Continue frying for 3-4 minutes total, turning occasionally, until golden brown and crispy on all sides.
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Remove the fried crullers from oil using a slotted spoon or spider strainer. Place on a paper towel-lined plate to drain excess oil. Serve immediately while still warm.
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Per serving
Pa Tong Ko, also known as Patongo, is the Thai adaptation of the Chinese fried dough stick called youtiao (油條). These crullers were first introduced to Thailand by Chinese immigrants, primarily from the Teochew and Hokkien communities, in the 1920s. The original Chinese name 'cha-koi' gradually evolved into the Thai pronunciation 'pa tong ko' (ปาท่องโก๋). Over the decades, Pa Tong Ko has become deeply embedded in Thai street food culture and is now considered a quintessential Thai breakfast item. Street vendors across Thailand, especially in Bangkok, prepare these fresh every morning, and the sight and aroma of frying Pa Tong Ko is a common feature of Thai morning markets. While originally eaten plain or with congee as in Chinese tradition, Thais developed their own serving style, popularizing the pairing with sweetened condensed milk and pandan custard.
Authentic Pa Tong Ko requires three specific leavening agents working together: baking ammonia (ammonium carbonate), alum powder, and yeast, with baking powder added at the final stage. This combination creates the signature texture - crispy and golden exterior with an airy, honeycomb-like interior that's neither too dense nor completely hollow. Recipes using only baking powder or baking soda will not achieve this authentic texture. The dough must be kept wet and sticky despite the temptation to add more flour, as this moisture creates the steam necessary for proper expansion during frying. The technique of constantly turning the crullers during the first 30 seconds of frying is crucial for even puffing. Traditional Pa Tong Ko is served fresh and warm, ideally consumed within an hour of frying. The pairing with sweetened condensed milk, while not originally Chinese, has become the authentic Thai way to enjoy Pa Tong Ko and distinguishes the Thai version from its Chinese ancestor.
โจ๊ก
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