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A rich and aromatic Northern Thai pork curry with Burmese influences, featuring tender pork belly slow-cooked with ginger, tamarind, pickled garlic, and peanuts in a complex curry paste with warm spices. Unlike most Thai curries, this does not contain coconut milk, allowing the bold flavors of ginger, tamarind, and masala spices to shine through. The curry is characterized by its thick, oily texture and a perfect balance of salty, sweet, and sour flavors.
Soak the dried chilies in warm water for 15-20 minutes until soft, then drain and chop. Using a mortar and pestle, pound the soaked chilies with salt until fine. Add galangal and continue pounding until incorporated. Add lemongrass and garlic, pounding until smooth. Finally, add shallots and shrimp paste, continuing to pound until you have a fine, aromatic paste (approximately 2/3 cup yield). Alternatively, use a food processor, but add ingredients gradually for best results.
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In a large bowl, combine both the pork shoulder and pork belly chunks with the prepared curry paste, pickled garlic liquid, and hang le powder. Mix thoroughly to ensure all meat is well coated. Let marinate for 1 hour at room temperature, stirring halfway through the marinating time to redistribute the flavors.
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Heat a large wok or heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the marinated pork (no oil needed as pork belly will render fat) and stir-fry for 10-15 minutes until the meat is no longer pink and has started to brown slightly. The curry paste will become fragrant and the oil will start to separate.
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Add the water to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, reduce heat to low, cover loosely, and let simmer gently for 30 minutes. The pork will begin to tenderize and the flavors will start to meld.
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Add the pickled garlic cloves, julienned ginger, roasted peanuts, and pineapple chunks (if using) to the curry. Stir to combine and continue cooking over medium-low heat for another 30 minutes. The curry will thicken and the pork will become more tender.
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Add the black soy sauce, thin soy sauce, palm sugar, and tamarind concentrate. Stir well to dissolve the sugar and distribute all seasonings. Continue cooking for another 30 minutes until the pork is fork-tender and falls apart easily. Taste and adjust seasoning - the curry should be salty, sweet, and sour in balance with a prominent ginger flavor.
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Remove from heat and let the curry rest for 10-15 minutes before serving. This allows the flavors to settle and intensify. Serve hot with steamed long-grain jasmine rice (not sticky rice, which is the traditional choice for most Northern Thai dishes).
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Per serving
Gaeng Hang Le is a testament to Northern Thailand's rich cultural exchanges with Myanmar. The name 'hang le' derives from the Burmese word 'hin lay' meaning 'heavy curry,' reflecting its dense, rich character. The dish likely arrived in Northern Thailand through the Shan people who inhabit Myanmar's Shan State, which borders the region. Indian traders who came to Chiang Mai for textile trade brought with them spices like turmeric, fennel, cumin, and cardamom, which became integrated into local cooking. Unlike traditional Northern Thai cuisine which rarely uses dried spices, Hang Le embraces them fully, creating a unique bridge between Burmese, Indian, and Thai culinary traditions. The curry is traditionally made for merit-making ceremonies, khantok wedding dinners, and village celebrations, particularly when a pig is butchered. The saying 'one curry feeds the whole village' speaks to its communal significance, with large cauldrons left to simmer while neighbors gather for celebrations.
Several elements define an authentic Gaeng Hang Le: First, the prominent use of fresh ginger (not galangal) as a primary aromatic, which is unusual for Thai curries. Second, the inclusion of pickled garlic and its brine, which provides the essential sweet-sour base. Third, the use of hang le powder (or garam masala), a dried spice blend uncommon in traditional Thai cooking but essential here. Fourth, the absence of coconut milk, allowing the meat, spices, and seasonings to create their own rich sauce. Fifth, the thick, oily consistency from rendered pork fat is intentional and traditional - not a flaw. Sixth, the balance must achieve salty-sweet-sour harmony with ginger and tamarind notes prominent. Finally, serving with long-grain rice rather than sticky rice distinguishes it from other Northern Thai dishes. Regional variations exist - Chiang Mai versions are sweeter, Chiang Rai/Nan versions are more tart, and Chiang Saen adds vegetables - but all maintain these core elements. The slow-cooked, fall-apart tender pork with visible fat and oil is the hallmark of properly made Hang Le.
ข้าวกั้นจิ๊น
A traditional Northern Thai dish of Shan/Tai Yai origin, featuring jasmine rice mixed with ground pork and pork blood, steamed in banana leaf packets. The blood infuses the rice with deep savory notes and a subtle iron taste, creating a unique and flavorful rice dumpling. This humble yet complex dish exemplifies the resourceful nose-to-tail cooking tradition of the region.
แอ็บปลา
A traditional Northern Thai (Lanna) dish featuring fish mixed with aromatic curry paste and fresh herbs, wrapped in banana leaf packets and grilled over charcoal. The cooking method creates a unique steamed-grilled effect that locks in moisture while infusing smoky flavors from the charcoal and herbaceous notes from the banana leaves. The result is tender, flavorful fish with a complex spice profile characteristic of Northern Thai cuisine.
แกงโฮะ
A traditional Northern Thai dish that transforms leftover curry, particularly Gaeng Hang Lay, into a flavorful stir-fry mixed with glass noodles, pickled bamboo shoots, and aromatic herbs. Despite its name containing 'gaeng' (curry), it's actually a dry stir-fry dish that originated from repurposing leftover curries at religious ceremonies. The name 'ho' means 'a mix of stuff', reflecting its nature as a combination dish that brings together various ingredients into a harmonious, strongly-flavored meal.
แกงอ่อม
Gaeng Om is a traditional Northern and Northeastern Thai herbal curry soup that stands apart from typical Thai curries by featuring a light, clear broth rather than coconut milk. This medicinal soup showcases the distinctive flavors of fresh dill (pakchi Lao), lemongrass, and an array of seasonal vegetables. Known for its health benefits and aromatic herbal properties, Gaeng Om has a clean, earthy taste that is neither overly spicy nor heavy. The signature ingredient is fresh dill, which gives the soup its characteristic flavor profile. Each region of Thailand has its own variation, but all versions share the common thread of being a water-based curry packed with fresh herbs and vegetables, making it a refreshing and nourishing meal.